White tie with decorations is a very specific dress code. Also known as full evening dress with decorations. For men, it is perhaps the most specific dress code there is. It is certainly the most formal, at least as far as I know of in the civilian world (the equivalent in the military would be the dress uniform). And likely the least common. I only know of two events in Philadelphia that require such dress. I am sure the number is far greater in New York, one such event this year was the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Gala (or just known as the Met Gala) which was held Monday May 5th. The Met Gala is organized by Anna Wintour, as such she is the one who sets the dress (as far as I know) and after last year’s ‘punk’ theme debacle it seems she wanted to put some elegance back into the event. So I applaud her for dictating the dress be white tie.
Through experience I have come to learn that many men do not even know what white tie is and how to dress for it. As one would guess, celebrities and designers are no different. So before I get critical let’s review a few of the finer points of white tie dress.
-White tie means WHITE TIE. A white (preferably pique which is also referred to as marcella) bow tie at that. Nothing more and nothing less. No long neckties and no black bow ties that would otherwise be used for black tie.
-The jacket worn for white tie is different than the jackets worn for morning dress and black tie. For starters, it has tails and a high cut out in the front – thus why white tie is often referred to as ‘tails’. The lapels must be peaked and the jacket is not meant to be worn closed.
-A white (preferably pique) waistcoat must be worn. Said waistcoat should not extend below the front of the jacket and will have a deeper cut than a normal waistcoat or vest.
-No wrist watches. However, pocket watches are acceptable.
-The shirt should have a wing collar and a front bib (preferably white pique). The shirt should also take studs (ideally mother of pearl, white gold or silver; not gold or onyx) and cufflinks.
-Shoes should be black patent leather opera pumps. Although admittedly, I would wear some Belgians or plain black velvet slippers; that would be my one deviation from the rules.
-‘Decorations’ refer to medals and other regalia that a man has been awarded or earned the privilege to wear. It does not refer to superfluous accessories or decorations.
-Canes, top hats, silk scarves, white gloves and formal overcoats, cloaks and capes are all appropriate accessories.
-Wear clothes that fit.
There are, as you can imagine, numerous other nuances to white tie which you can read more about here, among other places. But anyway, let’s check out what the celebrities brought to the red carpet. As per usual it is a mix of the good, the bad and the ugly.
Let’s start things off on the wrong foot. I cannot tell you how happy I would be to never see anything like what Neil Patrick Harris and David Burtka are wearing ever again. Mostly because these are two of the ugliest garments I have ever seen. But to their credit (and rather sadly), they are closer to actual white tie than a majority of their peers. I do encourage trying new things. But there is a right and a wrong way to go about that, this would be the latter.In contrast we have Leonard Lauder. Mr. Lauder is without question one of the best dressed men of the night; his jacket and pants fit exceptionally well and he understands the ‘decorations’ part of the dress. Although showing one’s suspender tabs is somewhat of a faux pas in white tie, I quite like it.Mario Testino is another man who understands the decorations part of the dress code. Unfortunately, his waistcoat extends below his jacket, but nonetheless, well done sir.And then we have a plethora of men, like Tom Brady, who completely disregarded the dress code and wore black tie. Which I think is unacceptable.Jay Z is another one of those men who disregarded the dress code. Although he does look quite good in the white dinner jacket, it is not white tie.There were also some men, like Paul Rudd, who seemed to think that white tie means wearing a tuxedo with a white bow tie. Which is completely and utterly wrong.And Alexander Wang… Who, being a fashion designer, should understand things like this…In contrast Dai Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School got a little closer to the mark. But those shoes gave me nightmares.Marc Jacobs, although looking dapper, mistook evening dress for morning dress.Asap Rocky is just a lost cause.
Carmello Anthony did well with his top hat and gold chain. I also like the midnight blue of his jacket, which looks to be a white tie jacket with tails. But then his tie and waistcoat are black! So close yet so far.I never thought the day would come when I would have to say that Kayne West was not the worst dressed man of the night. But he is closer to white tie than many of the men at the gala.The rest of the outfit aside, Zac Posen is killing it in this cape.And Shaun White, who would of thought that this kid could pull off white tie this well? Not I.Another one of my favorite ensembles of the night came from Hamish Bowles. Who nailed the fit and accessories; as you would expect. Well done sir!I think I have made it clear over the past few awards shows that I am a fan of Bradley Cooper. He always brings his A game and it consistently one of the best dressed men on the red carpet. The Met Gala was no exception. His only error is the onyx studs. But nonetheless, excellent.We started at the bottom and now we are at the top. Tom Ford is dressed impeccably in some of his own duds, no doubt. The white boutonniere and white gloves add an unmatched level of elegance to his ensemble.
I get that Neil Patrick Harris is attempting white tie but i couldn’t agree more; it is the most terrible choice I’ve ever seen! And to think, these people generally have the capability to employ experienced stylists!- Richard
From what I understand, NPH’s ensemble was a nod to his theatrical character on Broadway, and is more of an artist’s statement than an example of proper white tie.
It is worth clarifying that in the military equivalent would be Mess Dress. If you told a unit to wear their Dress Uniform you would get something very similar to black tie.
Hi! I understand this is somewhat off-topic but I had to ask.
Does managing a well-established blog such as yours require a lot of work?
I’m completely new to running a blog but I doo write in my journal everyday.
I’d like to start a blog so I can share my own experience and
views online. Please let me know if you have any kind off recommendations or tips foor
brand new aspiring bloggers. Appreciate it!
I attend white tie events in USA and Europe, and the regions have micro rules which are sometimes overlooked.
When wearing white tie, the shirt studs need to have white enamel, black enamel is not correct.
The Marcella vest and bowtie needs to be same textured cotton.
While silk pocket square a must
decorations are to worn on left lapel over the lapel buttonhole.
the bottom of the Marcella vest should not exceed more than 1/2 inch below the front of the jacket.
These people have more money than God, yet almost none of them have image consultants to tell them what white tie actually means. Incredible.
And I’m sorry to say this but NPH is an awesome guy… but I’ve never cared for his style outside HIMYM. He’s nearly always a hot mess.
I get that Neil Patrick Harris is attempting white tie but i couldn’t agree more; it is the most terrible choice I’ve ever seen! And to think, these people generally have the capability to employ experienced stylists!- Richard
From what I understand, NPH’s ensemble was a nod to his theatrical character on Broadway, and is more of an artist’s statement than an example of proper white tie.
It is worth clarifying that in the military equivalent would be Mess Dress. If you told a unit to wear their Dress Uniform you would get something very similar to black tie.
Hi! I understand this is somewhat off-topic but I had to ask.
Does managing a well-established blog such as yours require a lot of work?
I’m completely new to running a blog but I doo write in my journal everyday.
I’d like to start a blog so I can share my own experience and
views online. Please let me know if you have any kind off recommendations or tips foor
brand new aspiring bloggers. Appreciate it!
I attend white tie events in USA and Europe, and the regions have micro rules which are sometimes overlooked.
When wearing white tie, the shirt studs need to have white enamel, black enamel is not correct.
The Marcella vest and bowtie needs to be same textured cotton.
While silk pocket square a must
decorations are to worn on left lapel over the lapel buttonhole.
the bottom of the Marcella vest should not exceed more than 1/2 inch below the front of the jacket.