I have in the past referred to Vesper Lynd’s statement that ‘there are dinner jackets and then there are dinner jackets’ in Casino Royale. The latter being something worthy of admiration and recognition. Well, Passaggio Cravatte is one of the tie makers that make ties and not ties. In fact, the nicest tie that I, and probably any man in my family, has ever owned (with Louis Walton and Arnys ties not far behind). A bold statement, you might think. And as a logical question you might ask, what makes the Passaggio Cravatte tie so nice?
The answer is can be simply broken down into two parts. First, the raw materials that go into the ties. Almost all of the ties are made from very nice vintage silk, or other vintage textile. So once a fabric is gone, it is gone for good; which depending on which way you look at it is a good or bad thing. But it also means that many of the patterns on the ties are not commonly found today. And mind you, Gianni Cerutti and Martha Passaggio, the proprietors, seem to favor geometric patterns.
Secondly, and perhaps of more importance is the way in which the ties are made. Which is beautiful. Passaggio’s signature tie is a 7 fold tie (as pictured below). However, they do make 6, 4 and 3 fold ties. But the 7 fold tie that Passaggio Cravatte makes harkens back to methods of over 100 years ago. Not how many commercial makers make their ties today. There is no lining on the ties. Only silk. I hope that the elegance of the construction shows through in the photos. The other distinct feature of the ties is the hand rolling along the edges, which is extremely rare these days. And again, extremely elegant. All of the other details like a self fabric keeper and slip stitch are present. And as expected the tie holds a nice knot and looks very well when worn.
So you may ask, what are the cons. I always have at least one for everything I review, but for Passaggio Cravatte ties I have yet to find one. I guess you could argue the price is high, around 150euro (@ $200). But for what you are getting you are not overpaying. So that isn’t even really a con. You could also argue that the wait time, of nearly a month, is excessive. So the ties are not for the impatient men. But then again, the ties are bespoke ties; you get to choose the fabric, construction and dimensions of the tie. There is no standing inventory, all ties are made individually. So a month wait is pretty reasonable, but if you are not the patient type, these ties are not for you. So it is the gift of time, in part that makes these ties so unique and it is the prowess of their design and construction that make them beautiful. The only other critique I can offer is that the slip knot is a little high, which sometimes results on the folds of the blade releasing a little bit, which so far hasn’t hadn’t as adverse effect on the wearing of the tie. Btu anyway, I expect to get a lot of use from my Passaggio Cravatte tie over the coming years. I also look forward to seeing what Gianni brings to his customers next, if it is done with as much care and attention as the ties we will all be better off for it.
Justin L Jeffers
Note: FYGblog did receive compensated product in the course of this review. However, as is always stated, the utmost care was taken in presenting the product at hand in an unbiased and objective way.