I have in the past referred to Vesper Lynd’s statement that ‘there are dinner jackets and then there are dinner jackets’ in Casino Royale. The latter being something worthy of admiration and recognition. Well, Passaggio Cravatte is one of the tie makers that make ties and not ties. In fact, the nicest tie that I, and probably any man in my family, has ever owned (with Louis Walton and Arnys ties not far behind). A bold statement, you might think. And as a logical question you might ask, what makes the Passaggio Cravatte tie so nice?
The answer is can be simply broken down into two parts. First, the raw materials that go into the ties. Almost all of the ties are made from very nice vintage silk, or other vintage textile. So once a fabric is gone, it is gone for good; which depending on which way you look at it is a good or bad thing. But it also means that many of the patterns on the ties are not commonly found today. And mind you, Gianni Cerutti and Martha Passaggio, the proprietors, seem to favor geometric patterns.
Secondly, and perhaps of more importance is the way in which the ties are made. Which is beautiful. Passaggio’s signature tie is a 7 fold tie (as pictured below). However, they do make 6, 4 and 3 fold ties. But the 7 fold tie that Passaggio Cravatte makes harkens back to methods of over 100 years ago. Not how many commercial makers make their ties today. There is no lining on the ties. Only silk. I hope that the elegance of the construction shows through in the photos. The other distinct feature of the ties is the hand rolling along the edges, which is extremely rare these days. And again, extremely elegant. All of the other details like a self fabric keeper and slip stitch are present. And as expected the tie holds a nice knot and looks very well when worn.
So you may ask, what are the cons. I always have at least one for everything I review, but for Passaggio Cravatte ties I have yet to find one. I guess you could argue the price is high, around 150euro (@ $200). But for what you are getting you are not overpaying. So that isn’t even really a con. You could also argue that the wait time, of nearly a month, is excessive. So the ties are not for the impatient men. But then again, the ties are bespoke ties; you get to choose the fabric, construction and dimensions of the tie. There is no standing inventory, all ties are made individually. So a month wait is pretty reasonable, but if you are not the patient type, these ties are not for you. So it is the gift of time, in part that makes these ties so unique and it is the prowess of their design and construction that make them beautiful. The only other critique I can offer is that the slip knot is a little high, which sometimes results on the folds of the blade releasing a little bit, which so far hasn’t hadn’t as adverse effect on the wearing of the tie. Btu anyway, I expect to get a lot of use from my Passaggio Cravatte tie over the coming years. I also look forward to seeing what Gianni brings to his customers next, if it is done with as much care and attention as the ties we will all be better off for it.
Justin L Jeffers
Note: FYGblog did receive compensated product in the course of this review. However, as is always stated, the utmost care was taken in presenting the product at hand in an unbiased and objective way.
Nice choice. Welcome to the club. Gianni is a classy guy, although attempting to hold a conversation with him reuqires a bit of patience and a translator, lol.
I’m fond of my Passaggio although the keeper is rather high on the blade. Since I don’t use the keeper for the back blade this normally wouldn’t cause an issue, but the keeper is so high that it sometimes interferes with the knoting of the tie.
I’ve recommend Passaggio to my global colleagues and they have the same issue. Otherwise the materials and construction are stellar. Enjoy.
I see what you mean. I havn’t had a problem with the keeper loop, but as I added, the slip knot is a little high. But luckily it hasn’t had an effect on the wearing or tying for me. I’ll ask Gianni if either the keeper of slip knot could be lowered. And funny point about conversing with him, such a nice guy but his English is not great, but I can’t complain as I cannot speak any Italian.
Break the repetitiveness when it comes to the method and design of your shirts. Every shirt should present a new measurement when it comes to the detail of the fabric, pattern, collar, buttons and cuffs.
Just a heads up for anyone that’s wondering wether to order or not: i paid a tie in September and I haven’t received anything (two and a half months later). I’m pretty sure that Gianni with his whole character are a scam.
I live in Italy, btw, so there’s no shipping problem. He never ever wrote to me with an update, I had to ask, always, and they were never more than “next week it’s coming”. And it’s coming next week ever since a month ago, so I guess it’s not coming.
Maybe this can help prior to flush down the toilet some money!
Patterns/silks moist likely aren’t vintage. They can be had at any number of Como silk mills. In fact, many of the patterns and colorways ar found in the swatch catalogs of an Italian silk printer I use. This doesn’t mean the product isn’t nice, but the article isn’t accurate.