Awl & Sundry Custom Shoe Review

Awl & Sundry Custom Shoe Review

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awl and sundry shoes

It was only a matter of time until someone did the whole online made to order shoe thing right.  So, after a few years of waiting it has happened.  Or at least, it is as good as it gets for now, and I mean that as a compliment.  The ‘it’ I refer to is Awl & Sundry.  Although admittedly, Awl & Sundry is far from the first company to do made to order shoes, they are the first that I know of to work on multiple lasts with multiple styles of shoes and do it solely online.

A few months back I shared about the ordering process at Awl & Sundry, which if you have not read, I advise you do so to get up to date.  Now that I have had the shoes for a little and had the opportunity to wear them I would like to finish the review as well as talk a bit more about Nikunj (pictured below wearing some Awl & Sundry wingtips) who is the man with the masterplan.

awl and sundry shoes close up

When Nikunj first approached me about Awl & Sundry we talked on the phone for about half and hour.  It was clear that the passion for both his business and its products was in tact.  Fortunately, we were able to meet a few months later in NYC, where Awl & Sundry is now based (a logical place given the convergence of tech and fashion that only NYC can provide).  Much like myself (and many of the other founders of the brands I have covered on these pages) Nikunj spent a few years working a corporate gig.  However, he found himself longing for more.  He also realized there was both the opportunity and ability to create a web based made to order shoe brand.

Nik 2

At the end of the first part of this review, I noted that my expectations were pretty high.  I should say that upfront that one some fronts my expectations were met and others were not.  But overall, I am extremely impressed with what Nikunj and his team has developed.  In order to deliver what they do they have had to develop thousands of patterns.  Which sounds crazy, but when you think about how shoes are made it makes sense.  Stay with me for a minute while I explain.

Awl & Sundry has 4 different style of shoes on it (oxford, derby, monk and loafer).   Within each style there are 5 different lasts to chose from.  For each size within each last they have to develop a separate pattern for each heel counter, toe cap, loafer strap, eyestay etc.  Take a simple toe cap.  A different pattern needs to be made to each last and each size.  Let’s assume 5 lasts and 10 sizes for each last.  That gives us 50 different patterns just for a toe cap.  Expand that over the entire population of options and we are quickly in the thousands of patterns.  Anyway, enough of my babbling, onto the shoes.

awl and sundry custom shoes
The shape of the last is one of, if not the first thing I look at.  The last, more than anything else, dictates both the comfort and look of the shoe.  I quite like this last, The Harvey.  Fortunately, it happens to be comfortable as well.
awl and sundry loafer side view
Three things draw my attention here.  The black sole and welting, the thickness of the sole and the lack of curvature on the strap across the vamp.  To elaborate; I do not care for a black sole on brown shoes.  Awl & Sundry should have an option for brown soles (I’ve spoken with Nikunj on this and they are working on that).  But if you like contrast or are getting black shoes you’ll be set.  The sole would do better being a little thinner, a thinner sole would give the shoe a better balance.  Admittedly, this is largely a personal preference though.  I would also prefer if the suede strap had a little more curvature, that it was a little more swept back.
awl and sundry strap loafer
The stitching along the strap is even and clean, as is the broguing.  From this photo you can also get a decent idea of how the leather looks.  The leather is of good quality for the price (around $350).  It has a smooth touch and takes a shine pretty well.
awl and sundry good year welted shoe
The shoes are Good Year welted.  The stitching of which is clean and even.  The edge of the sole could be cut closer to the stitching to make the shoe a little more sleek; but like some of my other points, this is a personal preference.
awl and sundry
You will see the small sliver of leather at the corner, although not really noticeable when the shoes are worn, I feel that it should have been removed in the quality control stage.  But other than that the quality control was very well done on this pair of shoes.
awl and sundry custom shoe
The only quality control issue that it worth noting is the sole paint on the base of the heel.  On another note, I quite like the shape of the heel counter.
awl and sundry shoe sole
Not to be forgotten is the sole of the shoe.  I think both the coloration and the marking on the sole is very nicely done.  The channel for the stitching is deep enough that the sole can wear down a bit before reaching the stitching.
awl and sundry loafer
With any 3D graphic rendering the biggest concern is that the real product looks like the graphic rendering.  In this case, I think a good job was done.  The proportions stayed true and I think the colors are a pretty close approximation as well.

awl and sundry custom mens shoes

Shoes: Awl & Sundry. Shirt: Cottonwork. Trousers: Phineas Cole (Paul Stuart).
Shoes: Awl & Sundry. Shirt: Cottonwork. Trousers: Phineas Cole (Paul Stuart).

As with any product and any brand, I have my share of critiques.  Some of which are more about my personal taste, like wishing for more curvature on the strap across the vamp.  Others are more objective like calling for a brown sole, not a black one.  But at the end of the day, Awl & Sundry provides a product that is unique and of good value.  The shoes are comfortable and are well made.  But to me the primary value is the ability to create something that is unique and speaks to your individual style.  It is an experience that is unmatched online as far as I know.  I would go so far as to say that the whole thing is rather exclusive and luxurious.  To me, choice and variety are some of the greatest luxuries there are.  I think that particularly for a man who has unique tastes or likes to chart his own course Awl & Sundry will be an exceptionally comfortable fit.  At a minimum I urge all of you to spend some time playing with the design site, there are literally thousands of combinations and I would have trouble believe you if you told me you couldn’t create one that you liked; if not one worth buying.  If you have any questions, comments or experience of your own with Awl & Sundry I urge you to hit the comments.

–JLJ

 

Note:  FYGblog did receive the pair of shoes referred to for the purpose of review.  As always, the utmost care has been taken to maintain an unbiased perspective on the product and brand at hand.

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9 COMMENTS

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  2. Is it just the photography but the leather looks “plastic” to Meermin

    How does the leather compare to the classic line Meermin $250 model.

    Thanks,
    Jason

  3. Have you heard about or had experience with The Left Shoe Company? They do a 3d scan of your feet in their store and then you order shoes online. I believe their shoes are made in Portugal.
    My feet at slightly different sizes and I have always wanted made to measure shoes so I thought I might give the a try.

  5. Looking for custom shoes to fit non-matching feet. Have seen several positive reviews about Adler custom shoes which use a cast sock that you use, then send in to get supposedly a perfect made to order fit. Thoughts?

    • Andrew,
      I have no experience with Adler shoes, however, I was recently contacted by them about doing a review, which I hope will work out. I will obviously post my thoughts on things and will keep you posted.
      -Justin

    • I will give a view on Adlers. I had real difficulties with their casting process. They claim it works and that the problem was down to me but anyway, after two separate attempts, they eventually sent me a pair of shoes. On the positive side, the quality of the shoes was relatively high. The downside was though that they simply didn’t fit. They were far too big. I have been told they will redo them but they have failed to maintain contact and have not sent out a bag for me to return them in. My main irritation, over and above the fact I have spent over 400 pounds for something that doesn’t fit, is that they are very unpleasant in their dealings with the customer. Their argument is that thousands of customers are happy and the fact I am not is my fault for not being able to properly work out how to use the casts. In fact, I did do it properly but I don’t really see how they can work anyway. It’s a good idea and it may work for some but it is hard to remove the a

      • I will give a view on Adlers. I had real difficulties with their casting process. They claim it works and that the problem was down to me but anyway, after two separate attempts, they eventually sent me a pair of shoes. On the positive side, the quality of the shoes was relatively high. The downside was though that they simply didn’t fit. They were far too big. I have been told they will redo them but they have failed to maintain contact and have not sent out a bag for me to return them in. My main irritation, over and above the fact I have spent over 400 pounds for something that doesn’t fit, is that they are very unpleasant in their dealings with the customer. Their argument is that thousands of customers are happy and the fact I am not is my fault for not being able to properly work out how to use the casts. In fact, I did do it properly but I don’t really see how they can work anyway. It’s a good idea and it may work for some but it is hard to remove the hardened cast and I don’t see how they can judge the required amount of space over the foot as a consequence. My guess is that if you have average or wider feet, it may be Ok but if yoiur foot is narrower, you end up with too much space, although the base of the foot is in itself comfortable.

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